as of the release of this guide in june'24 🔆
the war has been ongoing for 8 months
you can see it by the tired faces of the people
and by the empty spaces with 'for rent' stickers here and there
evenings in Jaffa are as lively as ever
old jaffa. healing era
an ancient port city
the first thing people saw when disembarking ships in the Holy Land
a place where only talented people and artists live
now almost empty
this probably never happened before
now it's a unique experience to see Old Jaffa without crowds of tourists
when you can see it in its entirety
don't miss this period of hers.
her healing era.
🍵
we divided this guide into 2 parts: WEEKDAYS and WEEKENDS
because due to the absence of tourists, not all artisans work daily (SOUVENIR works every day)
WEEKDAYS
morning
imagine you are now in the port of Jaffa
the main question: can you ride a boat?
the main answer: what is a promenade without sea walks? 😎
you don’t necessarily have to do this first thing in the morning, but know that this option exists — grab a coffee in the port and let's go:
captain Amir and his ship ‘SABABA’
35 shekels/half hour
captain Amir (yes, that's his full name) was born and raised in Jaffa, in this very port
when he was a boy, he ran barefoot with a bucket and fishing rod to catch fish for dinner
now it's the same, only he walks leisurely
and hosts you on his boat, called ‘SABABA’
you can easily find him by captain’s hat
***
Jaffa Fish Market
crabs 70 shek
shrimps 100-120 shek
farida (for baking whole in the oven) 90-100 shek
+ many more cool freshly caught fish and seafood
our favorite seller on fish market is Naj
***
let's climb from the port to the old city
- finding the street of your zodiac sign — a must (streets in old jaffa are named after zodiac signs)
- making a wish on the Wishing Bridge, touching your sign and looking at the sea — a must.
this city is built around the zodiac
for example, this brilliant fountain ⛲️ is the work of Varda and Ilan, incredible sculptors and people
🐣 Easter egg: whoever finds the hidden Buddha statue in the narrow streets gets a 5% discount at SOUVENIR
let's move on
you'll probably want to sit down, have coffee or some cold drink
so know this: the best coffee in Old Jaffa is at Hilweh Market ☕️
this specialty coffee shop and a store is founded by a couple of jaffans, palestinians. they sell and support talented local palestinian artisans
this is a movement parallel to zionism, and we want to emphasize that everything in the Middle East is all about interpersonal connections and, in 2024, around coffee culture :)
***
then visit the museum and (also) the home of Ilana Goor
meet this great woman in person and see the vast collection from her super famous friends in the art world
our favorite in this museum: the digital work with people that Ilana bought (second floor, on a big tv), to chill on her balconies and the room with lots of Jesuses (don’t ask, just visit)
highly recommended!
***
and the exit, as always, through ALTER | NATIVE | SOUVENIR :)
stop by for filters for Old Jaffa (sunnies from Ollu), fresh popcorn with spice and keepsakes from local artisans and small brands of israel.
day
/imagine
it's daytime
if you want to catch your breath, to meditate and cool down — we invite you to visit St. Peter's Church ⛪️
this is an incredibly peaceful, pleasant, and beautiful church with very funny bell ringing
***
if you want wine, music, art and good company, we recommend visiting Ilan Adar — an artist whose studio is on Kedumim Square
Ilan Adar one of those people who create "because they can't not create"
it's very captivating and inspiring
and as a person and host, he is great
and you can also buy his paintings, we think
***
the main daytime activity — a new thing in Jaffa
in those containers at the port, where the Fresh Paint exhibition usually takes place
more and more new projects appear there each time
but this time we want to highlight our favorites + our friends:
- coffee shop Coffee Blue with good dark roast
- Bear Vintage with their selection
- Dana with her upcycle high fashion collection
- Recycle system for Israel, their stand and information on how to connect your business to their system
- Quality books and toys in arabic language, of which there are few
+ there are always some cool pictures hanging on the containers
evening
the first thing we advise is to go to Yoga Lila studio for a yoga class
🧘🏼♀️ 🧘🏿
to Osnat and Vered
yoga Yin and Iyengar
this is not the yoga you are used to
this is deep, chill, proper yoga
where you rather relax in poses than "do sports"
one session of this yoga = 5 hours in a spa with a massage
a MUST.
plus yoga in the old city, what could be more romantic!
just wear comfortable clothes — and you're in bliss
***
next
a pop-up project 🕯️
candle workshops and delicious wine from Assaf Winery
we personally didn't have time to visit yet
but we think it's absolutely not in vain that everyone around talks about them!
***
an alternative evening can be spent at Na Laga’at center
this is a theater + a restaurant
but there's a nuance
all theater and restaurant staff, from actors to waiters, are deaf or blind people
and the restaurant with its tasting menu is in complete darkness
it's an incredible experience and we highly recommend it!
now Na Laga’at restaurant works like this:
Tuesday and Thursday
they serve vegetarian/fish courses
140-160 shek per person
in their theater, "The Little Prince" is currently running
for children
***
and also, in the Jaffa amphitheater on Wednesdays, they brought back cinema! 🎞️
the best tradition of local young people: gathering for movies in the old city under the open sky.
***
the main main thing everrr
the most important thing in a journey through old jaffa
do not forget about the “tourist's eye” — that's what brings magic 🪄
The term "tourist's eye” refers to a heightened state of awareness and curiosity, where one observes their surroundings with wide-open eyes, akin to a tourist discovering a new place. This perspective allows individuals to notice the small details and hidden beauty in everyday scenes, leading to moments of wonder and magic. By adopting the tourist's eye, one can experience the world afresh, finding joy and inspiration in the mundane.
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